How to use the panelling planner
- Measure the width of the wall at the height of the panelling, and decide how high the panelling should go.
- Enter the height of the skirting the battens will stand on, and how many rows of boxes you want.
- Enter the width of your battens, the gap you’d like between them and the length they’re sold in.
- Use the marking-out positions to draw a pencil line for each batten, then cut from the cutting list.
How the spacing is worked out
- There is a batten at each end of the wall, so the number of gaps is (wall width − one batten) ÷ (gap + one batten), rounded to the nearest whole number.
- The exact gap = (wall width − number of battens × batten width) ÷ number of gaps. Every gap is the same.
- Each vertical batten runs from the top of the skirting (or bottom rail) to the underside of the top rail.
- For a grid, the horizontal rails are cut to fit between the verticals, and the boxes share the height equally.
- Pieces are packed into the lengths you buy, longest first, reusing offcuts.
Worked example
A wall 3.6 m wide, panelled to 1.2 m above 10 cm skirting, with 7 cm battens and a 7 cm top rail, aiming for 40 cm gaps.
- Gaps: (3,600 − 70) ÷ (400 + 70) = 7.5, which rounds to 8 gaps and 9 battens.
- Exact gap: (3,600 − 9 × 70) ÷ 8 = 371.25 mm.
- Each vertical: 1,200 − 100 − 70 = 1,030 mm.
- With 2.4 m lengths: 6 lengths, including a joined top rail.
Choose Try an example above (with metric selected) to load these numbers.
Tips for a neat finish
- Walls and floors are rarely level. Use a spirit level for the top rail rather than measuring up from the floor everywhere.
- Fix the top rail first, then the end verticals, then the rest. A spacer block cut to the gap size speeds things up.
- Fill nail holes and joints, caulk the edges where battens meet the wall, then paint battens and wall together.
- Use moisture-resistant boards in bathrooms and follow the adhesive maker’s instructions.
Assumptions and limitations
- The wall is treated as one flat, uninterrupted run. Plan sections either side of windows and doors separately.
- All battens are the same thickness. Internal and external corners may need an extra batten.
- Adhesive, nails, filler, caulk and paint are not included.
- The drawing is scaled to fit the screen and page, not printed at a physical scale. Use the measurements.
Frequently asked questions
What is board and batten panelling?
Board and batten is a wall finish made from narrow strips of wood or MDF (battens) fixed to a wall in a regular pattern, usually vertical strips with a rail along the top. Painted the same colour as the wall, it adds texture and depth. A shaker or grid style adds horizontal rails to make boxes.
How far apart should battens be?
There is no fixed rule. Gaps of about 30–50 cm (12–20 in) are common for vertical board and batten. Narrower gaps look busier and more traditional; wider gaps look calmer. The planner adjusts your target gap slightly so every gap on the wall is exactly the same.
How high should wall panelling go?
A common choice is about one third to two thirds of the wall height, often around 1–1.5 m (3–5 ft) in a living room or hallway, or full height for a feature wall. Line the top rail up with something in the room, such as a window sill or the top of a headboard, so it looks deliberate.
Do I need to remove the skirting board?
Not usually. Many people stand the vertical battens on top of the existing skirting (baseboard), which is how the planner works when you enter a skirting height. If you take the skirting off, enter 0 and consider adding a bottom rail.
What about light switches, sockets and windows?
Plan the wall first, then check where switches and sockets fall. Moving a batten slightly or cutting around a socket is common. For a wall with a window or door, plan each section beside it as its own wall. Electrical fittings may need extending or moving by a qualified electrician.
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