How to use the gallery wall planner
- Enter the wall width and height. Measure the clear wall you want to use, for example between a door frame and a corner.
- Pick a starting arrangement or add your own frames using their outside dimensions.
- Drag frames into place, or select one and type its exact position. Use the alignment buttons to line up edges and the spacing buttons to make gaps even.
- Watch for warnings: frames that overlap or run past the edge of the wall are listed and outlined with a dashed border and a warning symbol.
- Optionally add each frame’s hanging hardware to get nail or hook positions.
- Print the plan or download it, then mark the positions on the wall with a tape measure, pencil and spirit level.
How measurements are given
- Left is measured from the left edge of the wall to the left edge of the frame.
- Top from floor and bottom from floor are measured up from the floor to the frame’s top and bottom edges.
- Gaps are the clear space between neighbouring frame edges.
- Hanging points are only shown for frames whose hardware you have measured. They are given as a distance from the wall’s left edge and a height from the floor.
The plan stores every position in real units, so zooming, rotating your phone or resizing the window never changes the layout. The printed drawing is scaled to fit the paper and is not a full-size template; the numbers in the table are the measurements to use.
Assumptions and limitations
- Frames are treated as rectangles of the size you enter. Round or irregular frames should be entered by their bounding rectangle.
- The wall is a flat rectangle. Sockets, switches, skirting/baseboards and furniture are not drawn; leave room for them yourself.
- Hanging points depend on hardware measurements you provide. The planner does not guess nail positions from frame size alone.
- Wire hangers can stretch and frames can tilt; check with a level as you hang.
Frequently asked questions
How high should a gallery wall be?
A common guideline is to put the centre of the whole arrangement at about eye level, often quoted as 145–152 cm (57–60 in) from the floor. Above a sofa or sideboard, many people leave a gap of roughly 20–25 cm (8–10 in) between the furniture and the lowest frame instead. These are conventions, not rules; the planner lets you set the height you want.
How far apart should frames be?
Even gaps of around 5–8 cm (2–3 in) are common for a tidy look. Larger walls and larger frames can take wider gaps. Use the spacing control to apply the same gap across a row or column.
Where do I put the nail?
That depends on the hanging hardware on the back of each frame, not just its size. Select a frame and add its hardware: for a wire, pull it taut towards the top of the frame and measure from the top edge of the frame down to the top of the wire; for D-rings or a sawtooth hanger, measure from the top edge to the hanging point and, for two D-rings, the distance between them. The planner then shows where the nail or hook goes. Without those measurements it shows only the frame edges.
Can I print the layout at full size to use as a template?
Not from this tool. The printed plan is drawn to fit the page and is not a physical-scale template. Use the measurements in the table, which come straight from the plan, and mark them on the wall with a tape measure and pencil. Many people also cut paper templates the size of each frame.
Is my layout saved?
Only if you choose to save it, and then only in this browser. You can also export a project file to keep a copy or move it to another device.
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